Muzzle Brake and Flash Hider Effectiveness at Flash Supression

[MaxKeymaster]

http://vuurwapenblog.com/2013/10/03/ar15-muzzle-brakeflash-hidercompensator-comparison-part-1/

3 good flash hiders that I like:
the A2 birdcage

the Surefire FH556-212A
http://www.surefire.com/fh556-212a.html

the Surefire SF3P
http://www.surefire.com/tactical-equipment/suppressor-adapters/flash-hider-adapter.html

Of these 3, the standard A2 bird cage is the best bang for the buck. Not the best – the best bang for the buck. There are probably many others that work well also.

[MaxKeymaster]

In the thread on SBR’s and supressors, G.W.N.S recommends the Vortex flash hider. While I do not have one, I have seen people use them with very effective results. They would be another good choice to consider.

[MaxKeymaster]

If you want something better than a standard A2 the YHM Phantom flash hider is known to be good, and also is a great bang for your buck. I got mine for $26.

[Anonymous]

I have been building using NOVESKE KX-3
I have some KX-5’s on order, they expect to ship early April. I don’t have any need for a flash reducer, but it does protect the crown, and slightly reduce the sound, atleast with the KX-3

[DiznNCParticipant]

From personal experience, the Smith Vortex is probably the best FS for the money on the market. The AAC Blackout is also very good but can be hard to find. The Smith is good kit and readily available for a decent price.

The open-pronged designs seem to reduce visible muzzle signature for whatever reason. Some object to the open-pronged design, claiming it will snag on brush or whatever. But if you tape up your muzzle (like you should anyway) it’s a non-issue.

CTT 1505, NODF 1505, CP 1503, LN 1, RC II, Rifleman

[EricParticipant]

Consensus seems to be that the vortex is the best…

with the phantom coming in second.

Whatever you do, don’t buy a muzzle brake unless you want to get punched in the face by the person close to you when you pull off some rounds.

I was at the indoor range a couple of months ago, and the guy in the booth next to us was shooting a ruger, bolt action scout rifle in 308 with a muzzle brake on it. It felt like I was getting hit in the head every time he pulled one off. I was getting ready to change booths when he packed up and left.

"I have sworn upon the altar of god eternal hostility against every form of tyranny over the mind of man"

Thomas Jefferson

[EricParticipant]

DiznNC wrote:

From personal experience, the Smith Vortex is probably the best FS for the money on the market. The AAC Blackout is also very good but can be hard to find. The Smith is good kit and readily available for a decent price.

The open-pronged designs seem to reduce visible muzzle signature for whatever reason. Some object to the open-pronged design, claiming it will snag on brush or whatever. But if you tape up your muzzle (like you should anyway) it’s a non-issue.

Tape up your muzzle??

Please explain.

"I have sworn upon the altar of god eternal hostility against every form of tyranny over the mind of man"

Thomas Jefferson

[ThomasParticipant]

Concur with Smith Vortex. The design does not snag on brush any more than a bayo lug, flash light or anything else.

Taping the muzzle is an “old school” technique to protect the muzzle by keeping dirt and moisture out of the barrel. The tape is removed when the first shot is fired. I learned that trick from a veteran of the Ashau Valley. He taught me a bunch of those types of things.

[DiznNCParticipant]

This is old school SOP for patrolling in the bush. You always tape up your muzzle, to keep all the crap out of it. This has fallen out of favor (along with a lot of bushcraft) lately. Duct or electrical tape will do the trick. One long piece vertically across the bore, then several wraps horizontally to lock in place and cover the slots. In the jungle (or other high humidity environment) we left a small gap between the tape and the back edge of the slots for a little ventilation (or so we hoped).

CTT 1505, NODF 1505, CP 1503, LN 1, RC II, Rifleman

[Author]

Posts