August 14, 2015 at 1:08 am #19916First SergeantModerator
I saw more weapons go down this past CTT class than I have seen in a long time. We had popped primers, no lube, not enough lube, wrong lube(grease), carbon build up in the chamber that kept the weapon from going into battery and one case of a carbine buffer and spring in a rifle length AR(with an adjustable carbine stock) that caused it to short stroke. It essentially became a bolt action rifle. The buffer was unmarked and it had a coated buffer spring. All of these issues detracted from training time. You want to be able to get the most out of class, not have to worry about your gun going down.
Lube-Next to bad magazines, this is probably second on the list for causing malfunctions. Either due to not using enough or using the wrong kind of lube. Not lubing your gun will cause all kinds of headaches, you can hear the parts grinding together. It will eventually cause the gun to stop due to carbon buildup. Think about what happens to an engine when it is run with no oil, it eventually seizes and so will your gun. Carbines, like women, run better when wet. DO NOT use grease in an AR. Grease is great for an M1 Garand, not for an AR.
Everybody has their opinion when it comes to what type of lube to use. I don’t care what you use, but test it under all conditions to see if it works as advertised. Some found out this weekend that their choice was not the best. I use SLIP 2000. It flat out works in all conditions. Cold, heat, sand, rain and snow. I have used it in all of them and had no issues. It doesn’t disappear like some lubes will and it prevents carbon build up.
Cleaning Kits-You need some type of cleaning kit. Either a kit you buy or one that you put together yourself. At a minimum you need a toothbrush, bore-snake, shaving brush, rag, chamber brush and a cleaning rod. Why a cleaning rod if you are using a bore-snake? If you have to clean your chamber with the chamber brush, you need a rod to do it with. Comes in handy when you get carbon build up in the chamber and your gun won’t go into battery. Also comes in handy if on the off chance you get a stuck case. Contrary to popular belief, AR’s are not maintenance intensive. Forget all the myths that are floating around, what you learned in basic training and the “expert” behind the gun counter. It does not have to be detail stripped and made immaculate every time you fire it. Depending on how you do it, it can cause premature wear to the gun. I use SLIP 2000 Carbon Killer. It works as advertised.
Spare Parts-You need to keep spare parts on hand. Especially in your patrol pack. Mechanical things break. It’s better to have the parts on hand when you need them vs having a club in your hand. I recommend a complete lower parts kit and a complete bolt carrier group.
Optics-You need to keep a clean rag on hand to be able to clean off your optics, You don’t want to use the same rag that you use to clean your gun. That should be self explanatory. Spare batteries on hand. If you are not running a BUIS, you need to start running one and zero it. Optics break, you need to have sights for your rifle to be effective.
Magazines-If you are using GI mags, don’t try and bend the feed lips back into place or stretch the spring out if you are having malfunctions, get rid of it. There is a reason that most have switched to polymer mags. Most malfunctions have all but disappeared because of polymer mags. Do they still happen? Absolutely, but nowhere near as frequent as they do with aluminum mags.
Ammo Selection-We all like to save money. Something’s you can’t skimp on. Make sure you are using quality ammo. Not only for your load out, but also for training. As I said at the beginning, popped primers caused all kinds of havoc with guns this past weekend. They will get into your lower receiver and stop it cold. You may or may not get it fixed quick. Steel cased ammo also caused all kinds of problems. AR’s were designed around brass cased ammo, use it.
Guns-Buy quality AR’s. Not the cheapest or the crap somebody built in their mom’s basement or some frank-en gun. I’ll put it to you this way, it’s your life and your loved ones life that you are betting on. Are you ready to make that bet with the choice you’ve made?
These are things you need to get sorted out now. Not sometime in the future. You want to be able to depend on your rifle and be able to fix things when they go wrong. Murphy will sneak up on you when you least expect it. Be able to mitigate that by being ready for it. Some of this you may not agree with. I am giving you advice based on experience, not wishful thinking.
Signal out, can you identify.
Je ne regrette rien...
Klagt Nicht, KämpftAugust 14, 2015 at 8:17 am #19918DiznNCParticipant
This is a very good, timely post. This guy is not some internet commando in mommy’s basement. So listen up, troops.
At least these guys are getting all this stuff sorted out in training instead of go-day.
CTT 1505, NODF 1505, CP 1503, LN 1, RC II, RiflemanAugust 14, 2015 at 10:20 am #19931SocksParticipant
Good information First Sergeant, and I have all ready started taking your recommendations from CTT. All I know is that I don’t want to be the guy who’s gun stops running when it’s going down for real. In training it was annoying having to run back to get an extra AR; in combat…. that popped primer would have been my life.
The price of freedom is the willingness to do sudden battle anywhere, any time and with utter recklessness.
Robert A. HeinleinAugust 14, 2015 at 12:31 pm #19938Joe (G.W.N.S.)Moderator
There’s nothing to add.
Solid advice, don’t learn the hard way!
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